🥚 Why Didn’t My Eggs Hatch? Troubleshooting Common Problems
You’ve counted down the days, hovered over your incubator like an expectant parent, and waited for that magical peep!… but hatch day came and went — and nothing happened. 😩
Don’t worry, it happens to the best of us! Hatching eggs is both an art and a science, and sometimes things don’t go exactly to plan. Let’s crack into (pun intended 🐣) the most common reasons your eggs didn’t hatch — and how to fix them next time!
🌡️ 1. The Temperature Was Off
Temperature is everything in incubation.
If it’s too low, chicks develop slowly (or not at all).
If it’s too high, they can develop too quickly or become deformed.
👉 The ideal incubation temperature:
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Forced-air incubator: 37.5°C
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Still-air incubator: 38.3°C (because air doesn’t circulate evenly)
Even a small fluctuation can make a big difference — so check your thermometer’s accuracy regularly and place it at egg height, not near the lid or wall.
💧 2. Humidity Wasn’t Right
Humidity can be tricky business!
Too low, and chicks get shrink-wrapped in the shell.
Too high, and they can “drown” before hatching.
👉 Ideal humidity:
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Days 1–18: 40–50%
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Lockdown (Days 19–21): 65–70%
Tip: Watch your air cell size when candling — it tells you if humidity has been too high or low during incubation. A hygrometer in the incubator is your best friend here!
🔄 3. You Forgot to Turn the Eggs (or Not Enough)
Eggs need to be turned regularly so the embryo doesn’t stick to the shell membrane.
Automatic turners make life easy, but if you’re turning by hand — aim for 3–5 times a day until Day 18.
👉 Stop turning at Day 18 (“lockdown”) so chicks can position themselves for hatching.
If eggs weren’t turned often enough, embryos might stop developing partway through. 😢
🕵️ 4. Infertile or Old Eggs
Even perfect incubation conditions can’t hatch an infertile egg!
If your eggs were older than 7–10 days before going into the incubator or stored in warm/hot conditions, fertility and hatchability drop fast.
👉 Candling tip: By Day 7–10, you should see clear signs of life — veins, a dark embryo, and movement. Clear eggs by Day 10? Likely infertile.
🌬️ 5. Poor Ventilation
Chicks need oxygen to develop — yes, even inside the shell!
If the incubator’s vents were closed or airflow was blocked, embryos can suffocate late in development.
👉 Keep air vents open throughout incubation (especially during lockdown).
Fresh air in, carbon dioxide out = happy, breathing chicks!
🚫 6. Contamination or Bacteria
A “bad smell” from the incubator is never a good sign!
Dirty eggs or incubators can let bacteria seep in, stopping development or causing exploded eggs (gross but true).
👉 Always:
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Set clean, dry eggs
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Wash and disinfect your incubator between hatches
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Avoid washing eggs before setting (it removes the natural protective bloom)
🐣 7. Late Deaths or “Pipped but Not Hatched”
It’s heartbreaking to see chicks pip the shell but never make it out. 😢
This usually happens when humidity or temperature was off during lockdown — or if the incubator lid was opened too often (moisture escapes fast!).
👉 Once you hit Day 18, no peeking! Keep humidity high and resist the urge to open the lid, even if you hear chirping.
💡 Pro Tip: Keep a Hatch Log!
If you’re serious about improving your hatch rates, keep a little notebook (or spreadsheet!) with:
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Dates and temperatures
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Humidity levels
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Turning frequency
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Hatch results
Over time, you’ll spot patterns — and soon be hatching like a pro!
🐥 Final Thoughts
Hatching isn’t just science — it’s a journey. Each hatch teaches you something new, and even experienced breeders have the odd dud batch. The key is to learn, tweak, and try again.
So don’t get discouraged — clean that incubator, grab a fresh batch of fertile eggs, and get cracking! 🐣
Because nothing beats the joy of hearing that first “peep!” from a chick you’ve hatched yourself.
